I discovered aperitivo many years ago on a trip to Verona with Blondine, where we ended up one evening skipping dinner as we sipped on our second round of cocktails and wine. Little bits of delicious Italian goodness never seemed to stop coming to our table. We were somewhat puzzled, but of course, we did not complain. I mean, how could we? We really wondered -- Why are we getting free food? Haha. Except that our dinner plans were thwarted down the drain, but then that gave us an excuse to order another round.
It was when we learned about Italy’s happiest hour(s) of the day. Well at least in northern Italy where aperitivo is a lifestyle set in stone.
In Modena, I had a very early aperitivo and I am not apologising for it. Apertivo hours are usually between late afternoons and before dinner time. But it doesn’t say you cannot get aperitivo earlier, as long as it is after lunch of course.
Whilst walking around Via Adeodato Malatesta, I passed by this narrow alley with people having a very late lunch. The alley is slightly hidden from the main street but still visible, especially if you are the observant and thorough type who can canvas an area quickly and spot the unusual stuff. In Italy, it is normal for people to have lunch for long hours. The Italians love to sit outdoors and talk with family, friends and colleagues over food and drinks. The tourists seem to follow this local trend as well when in Italy. And this is another thing about the country that I really love. You eat outdoors, spend time with people that matter to you and you take your time.
Writing this post now makes me want to plan a trip to Italy! But if I go, it will have to be the south, because the farthest I have been so far was Frascati, which is half an hour south of Rome. I could live in Italy, you know!
So out of curiosity, I stopped in front of this narrow alley and stepped into it, passing by the tables of the late lunch goers. I could hear them laugh in the background and I was wondering if I should take a table as well or first go inside the bar to check it out. As I turned around to look back at the alley, I saw the view and there I realised why this little discreet street is special. It has direct views to the Modena Cathedral.
I paused for a moment to look at the cathedral. I was sure by then. I will sit here and have a drink.
Lovely view of the Modena Cathedral from the narrow alley.
Hospitality places in Italy are very used to tourists these days, so the man behind the counter spoke to me in Italian-English combo which I really appreciate. I told him I would love a glass of white wine and if he can suggest me something. He further asked if I prefer sweet or dry. I said somewhat dry and not too sweet. He nodded. I cannot remember the name of the grape or which DOC the wine came from, although it could have been a Trebbiano. All I know is that it was surely a local wine from the region. He then said I can go take a seat outside while he prepares the order.
After a few minutes, a young girl greeted me as she placed the glass of white wine, a bowl of crisps and a little puff pastry with ham on the table. I was not expecting such reception. It seems they have served me an aperitivo? I won’t say no of course, haha. I mean, there’s nothing wrong with having an early aperitivo, right?
My plan after Modena is to go to Parma, but for now, I can sit here in bliss and relish the moment. In this small somewhat secret alley, as I sip my chilled white wine and enjoy the view of the Modena cathedral.
I managed to find the location of the bar on Google Maps:
The bar enoteca has no website and is located on the street, Vicolo Camillo Coccapani. This is on the corner crossing of Via Sant’Eufemia and Via Adeodato Malatesta. This alley enjoys direct views to the Duomo Cathedral.
I also realised that this is a very local place. I did a quick online search and the bar enoteca seems to have a lively atmosphere in the evenings, most often frequented by the people in the neighbourhood. I can pretty much say that Bar-Enoteca Ristretto is easily one of the best places to go for coffee, lunch or an apertivo in Modena. It is a popular place, not surely by tourists, but locals.
More pictures here:
The narrow alley of the bar enoteca -- Vicolo Camillo Coccapani.
I much prefer hearty types of pastries like this.
It is a bit hidden =)
Travel Period: May 2016
Destination: Modena (Emiglia-Romagna), Italy
Keep in touch and follow me on Facebook: Travel & Lifestyle Diaries by Dutched Pinay Travels
Happy Travels! Enjoy Life =)
All pictures were taken by a point and shoot pocket camera or a smartphone.
